September’s Sock: Moss Stitch Hiking Sock

hikersockphoto

Originally uploaded by thebretonyarnerie

OK, I loved this sock and when I put the pattern up for sale, no one else did. LOL. So I took it down and turned it into a sock of the month because I figure someone out there will love it as much as I do. I know they don’t look like much, but these boot socks are super comfy!!! This is preferable when you are making something for walking around in. This was one of my attempts to make something that might appeal to a man, as well, although I couldn’t convince any of the males in my family to donate their foot for the cause.

Level of difficulty: You can make this sock on the bus, watching television, or waiting in the doctor’s office. This pattern assumes that you understand things like working in the round, and common North American stitch names and abbreviations.

Supplies and notions:

Paton’s Stretch Socks. 2 skeins, Olive.

2.75mm hook Split ring markers Yarn needle Gauge: 2″ = 11sc working in a spiral

If followed as written, this pattern makes a sock that will fit a female US Size 9 foot. To make this to fit your foot, take a measurement around the ball of your foot, at the widest part around the joint below the big toe. Use this measurement as your “master number”. Generally speaking, you can have the same amount of stitches around your lower leg as you can around the widest part of your foot.

This pattern incorporates an “afterthought” heel. This type of heel is added after the leg of the sock is created. When you are satisfied with the length of the leg, it is time to create the opening for the heel.

After this opening is created, you will work in the specified pattern to create the foot, until the work from the heel opening measures 4” less than the total length of your foot. At this time, you will begin working in rounds of sc while following a decrease sequence to create the toe.

Foundation Single Crochet (fsc):

Ch 2, insert hk into 2nd ch from hk, make 1 sc. Insert hk into this sc by working behind the two front strands of the stitch. Draw up a lp, yarn over and draw through lp – bottom bump of next sc made. Yarn over again to complete the stitch. 2 sc made. Continue like this, by inserting your hook into the stitch you just made, to make as many sc as you need. This takes a bit longer than the usual foundation chain but it is much stretchier.

Rnd 1: Fsc 42 sts. Join first to last without twisting, ch 3 (does not count as a st) and work 42 dc around. Join first dc to last with a ss.

Begin working Mock Posted Ribbing:

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (does not count as a st), *fpdc around post of first dc in row below, dc in next dc, fpdc around post of next dc in row below, repeat around from *, alternating fpdc and dc. Join last dc to first fpdc with a ss.

Rep this rnd for pattern until cuff is approximately 5” long.

Next rnd: ch 1, turn, sc in each st, join with ss.

To work heel:

Ch 1, turn and sc across first half of sts (21 sc). Flatten your sock widthwise and isolate the side stitches. Work across these 21 front/top sts, then ch 1. Insert hook back into centre of sc just worked, behind the two front strands of the st. Proceed as before for fsc, to make your 22nd sc. Work the next sc into this one by inserting the hook into the centre of this st, and following the same instructions. Continue until you have 42 sts. Join the rnd with a ss.

If you are making another size, work across the first half of your stitches. The basic rule for creating a heel, regardless of the fashion in which it is made, is that your heel uses half the total amount of stitches. Therefore, the first half of your round now becomes the top of your foot and the second half becomes the bottom. If you want a narrower heel, work more stitches across the top of your sock foot. If you would like a roomier heel, work fewer than half the stitches before creating the opening.

Ch 1, do not turn, commence working in a spiral and begin the Moss Stitch pattern (also called Griddle Stitch and Grit Stitch, I do believe)

Pattern rnd 1: ch 1, sc in first st, dc in next st, rep around, ending with dc. Join last st to first st with ss.

Pattern rnd 2: ch 3 (does not count as st), do not turn, dc in sc, sc in dc, work around like this, joining first st to last with a ss.

Rep these two rounds for pattern, until foot portion of sock, when tried on, comes up and almost over the bump on the side of your foot below the big toe.

Begin toe shaping:

Rnd 1: ch 1, turn. Sc around, join rnd with ss.

Rnd 2: rep rnd 1

At this point, flatten your sock widthwise to isolate the side sts. You may have to ss loosely for a few sts to get to a side st to begin the next rnd. Mark the side sts.

Rnd 1: Ch 1. Sc in marked st. Sc2tog and work sc in sc to within two sts of next marker. Sc2tog, work marked st, sc 2tog. Work even to last two sts, sc2tog, join with ss to beg of rnd.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, do not turn. Work even.

Repeat this until there are 18 sts. Draw up a long lp, remove hk, cut a long tail and turn sock inside out. Pull the lp and tail through, replace hk and use this tail (about 8-10”) to ss the opening shut. Weave in your ends.

Finish heel:

The heel is just like another toe. The decrease sequence is the same. Attach the yarn with the RS facing, and work 21 sc evenly on both sides of the heel opening. Work two extra sts, at each side where the two edges meet, for a total of 44 sc. Work one more round, then begin the decrease rounds until you have 20 sts. SS heel shut in same manner as toe.

Weave in your ends and make another sock!!!